Why Can’t You Climb Machhapuchhre (Fishtail)? What’s Documented, What’s Believed, What’s Disputed

Why can’t you climb Machhapuchhre? Machhapuchhre, the Fishtail peak in Nepal’s Annapurna Himal, is officially unclimbed. A British team stopped just below the summit in 1957, and Nepal has reportedly issued no climbing permits since. Local belief that the mountain is sacred is the usual reason given, though sources differ on who decided and why.

Machhapuchhre at a glance

Machhapuchhre (also spelled Machapuchare) rises above the Modi Khola gorge north of Pokhara, in the Annapurna Himal. It’s not one of Nepal’s 8,000 m giants, but its steep profile makes it one of the most photographed peaks in the country. Where sources disagree, the table says so.

What happened on Machhapuchhre in 1957

The only first-hand record is Wilfrid Noyce’s article, “Climbing the Fish’s Tail”, in the 1957 Alpine Journal. We’ve used it for what happened and kept other retellings at arm’s length. (If you read it yourself, you’ll see it’s more about weather, cornices and cold feet than mysticism.)

Jimmy Roberts led. Noyce, David Cox, Charles Wylie and Roger Chorley made up the climbing party, with Sherpas and a Nepalese liaison officer. Chorley fell ill early (later identified as polio) and left. By early June, Noyce and Cox were the pair left to try the top.

Difficulty is part of the documented story: a gorge approach with bamboo and deep snow, cliffs at the base, a corniced ridge, soft snow, steep ice near the top, and daily afternoon thunder and snow. This page isn’t a climbing guide, so we’re not going further than that.

46 m or 50 m? Why you’ll see both

Noyce’s text says they stopped less than 150 ft below the summit. Convert 150 ft and you get about 45.7 m, which many pages round to 46 m. Others round again to 50 m, or to 150 ft. They’re the same number. Noyce also gives the summit as 22,958 ft with a high point near 21,000 ft, so treat the gap as roughly 45 to 50 m.

Why did they turn back?

As we read Noyce, the immediate reasons were weather and time: snow, cloud and the hour. He also describes deciding to leave the mountain’s “goddess” alone, in a half-joking tone, and says the party had promised to “keep on the right side of the gods” after local concern at Ghandruk. He doesn’t say a king, a government order or a religious rule stopped them. Some secondary sources say otherwise. We couldn’t find that in the article itself.

Why can’t you climb Machhapuchhre? The reasons, sorted by evidence

Most pages blend these into one tidy story. Pulled apart, they don’t all carry the same weight.

Is there a formal Machhapuchhre climbing ban?

We looked for an official statement from the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, the Department of Tourism and the Nepal Mountaineering Association peak lists. As of 28 October 2026 we couldn’t locate a published order. What we can say is that the Himalayan Database marks the peak closed and unlisted, and that multiple sources say no permit has been issued since 1957.

On timing, sources don’t agree. Many pages say 1957. Others say 1962. Dr Harka Gurung wrote in 2001 that the peak was open to climbers until 1965, and BBC Travel describes it as off limits since the 1960s. We can’t tell you which is right. If you’re citing the ban, say “widely reported” and give the source.

To check the current position yourself, see the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation / Department of Tourism and the Nepal Mountaineering Association.

Is Machhapuchhre sacred? The debate

Plenty of people in the Pokhara valley and around Chhomrong say the mountain is sacred, and many describe it as a home of Shiva. A Pokhara poet quoted by BBC Travel says locals believe it is “only to be adored by the eyes.” That belief is genuine, and it’s reason enough for many people to leave the peak alone.

It’s also debated. Dr Harka Gurung, a geographer and former tourism minister, wrote in Nepali Times in 2001 that the claim of sanctity for the Gurungs was a myth, and that local herders call snow peaks by a general term rather than naming this one. The Gurung and Hindu traditions in the region are different things, and a Hindu association with Shiva doesn’t automatically mean a Gurung one.

We don’t need to settle that to say what’s true on the ground: permits aren’t issued, and many people living below the mountain would like it left alone. [Add a short local voice here only if you have interviewed someone.]

Has anyone climbed Machhapuchhre?

Officially, no. “Unclimbed” here means there’s no confirmed summit on record. It doesn’t mean no one has ever stood near the top: Noyce and Cox came within about 46 m.

Unverified The Himalayan Database mentions a rumour that a New Zealander, Bill Denz, reached the summit illegally in the late 1970s. Other pages say the early 1980s. There’s no documentation, so we don’t count it. We also don’t suggest anyone try. An unpermitted attempt would be illegal and would ignore the wishes of people who live under the mountain.

Should Machhapuchhre be opened?

Reasonable people disagree. Here’s the best case each side makes, with who makes it.

We’re not offering a verdict here. It’s the Government of Nepal’s call, and the people who live beneath the peak have the strongest say.

Where to see Fishtail Mountain and trek beneath it

You don’t need to climb Machhapuchhre to appreciate it. The mountain changes with every step along the trail, and that’s half the fun. Elevations are rounded and vary by source.

Planning a walk? Our Annapurna Base Camp itinerary  covers the practical side.

Respecting the mountain

• Stay on the marked trekking trails. Don’t leave them to go higher on the mountain.
• Don’t attempt to go above Machhapuchhre Base Camp onto the peak itself. We found no official line marking exactly where trekkers must stop, so ask your guide or ACAP; the peak itself is closed to climbing.
• Carry the Annapurna Conservation Area permit. An operator page updated 7 January 2026 lists the fee as NPR 3,000 for foreigners and says TIMS is discontinued. Confirm with ACAP before travel.
• Take your rubbish out, keep voices down at dawn viewpoints, and ask before photographing people or shrines.
• If someone tells you how they feel about the mountain, listen first.

Current conditions (checked 28 October 2026)

• A 9 October 2026 operator update said Pokhara-area treks, including Annapurna Base Camp, Poon Hill and Mardi Himal, were running normally, with damage mostly to roads rather than trails.
• A separate operator page reports a 13 July 2026 flood on the Kimrung Khola that damaged the Nayapul–Birethanti–Ghandruk road near Syauli Bazaar. It says the trekking trail itself stayed open and the road reopened to one-way traffic within about a day; full repair was pending when that page was updated.
• The late-August 2026 Rasuwa flood was in a different corridor (Bhote Koshi and Trishuli), north of Kathmandu. The same page says the Annapurna region was reported unaffected, but that’s from an operator, not an official source. Our solo-trekking article has more: is it safe to trek in Nepal solo.
• Best viewing seasons are autumn and spring. Dashain traffic has passed; we haven’t checked later festival dates.

Quick checklist for visitors

Frequently asked questions about Machhapuchhre

1. Why can’t you climb Machhapuchhre?

Nepal reportedly hasn’t issued a climbing permit for Machhapuchhre since the 1957 British attempt, so no legal expedition can go. The reason people give most often is that local communities hold the mountain sacred. Others point to the circumstances of 1957, or to a request from expedition leader Jimmy Roberts. Those explanations are not equally well documented, and we couldn’t find a published government order that settles it. Treat “it’s a sacred, closed peak” as the safe summary and the rest as attributed claims.

2. Is Machhapuchhre banned by law?

It’s widely reported as closed, and the Himalayan Database lists it as closed and not on the open peak list. What we couldn’t find, as of 28 October 2026, is a published statute or order from the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, the Department of Tourism or the Nepal Mountaineering Association stating a ban and its date. So the accurate wording is that permits are effectively not issued, not that a specific law has been shown to us. If you have the document, send it and we’ll update this page.

3. Has anyone ever climbed Machhapuchhre?

No confirmed summit exists. The only documented attempt is the 1957 British expedition, which stopped a little below the top. The Himalayan Database mentions an unconfirmed rumour that a New Zealander, Bill Denz, reached the summit illegally in the late 1970s; there’s no record to back it, so we treat it as a rumour. Officially the peak is unclimbed. None of this is an invitation to try. Climbing there without a permit would be illegal and would disregard the people who live below it.

4. How high is Machhapuchhre?

The figure you’ll see most often is 6,993 m (22,943 ft), and that’s the number in the Himalayan Database. You’ll also see 6,997 m, which matches Noyce’s 1957 figure of 22,958 ft once converted (our arithmetic, not a published explanation). One Nepali Times article gives 6,991 m. We couldn’t find an official Government of Nepal survey figure, so we use 6,993 m with that caveat. Either way it’s under 7,000 m, and its sharp prominence is what makes it look taller than it is.

5. What happened on the 1957 expedition?

A small British party led by Lt. Col. Jimmy Roberts spent April to early June on the mountain. Wilfrid Noyce and David Cox made the final push and turned back less than about 150 ft (roughly 46 m) below the top, with snow starting and cloud closing in. Roger Chorley fell ill early on and went home. Noyce’s account in the 1957 Alpine Journal is the only first-hand climbing record, and it is the source we lean on. It gives weather and time as the immediate reasons for turning back.

6. Who was Jimmy Roberts?

Lt. Col. James Owen Merion Roberts was a British Gurkha officer who led the 1957 Machhapuchhre expedition and the 1956 reconnaissance before it. He later served as British military attaché in Kathmandu and founded Mountain Travel in 1964, and is often called the father of Nepal trekking. BBC Travel reports that he asked the government to keep the peak unclimbed, and that how he persuaded them is unclear. Noyce’s article doesn’t mention such a request, so we label it as a reported claim.

7. How close did the 1957 team get to the summit?

Noyce’s account says less than 150 ft below the top. That’s about 46 m, which is where the 46 m figure comes from. The 50 m figure is the same number rounded, since 150 ft is about 45.7 m. Some pages quote both as if they were different results. Noyce also reports the summit at 22,958 ft against a high point of about 21,000 ft, so the exact gap depends on which height you trust. Call it roughly 45 to 50 m.

8. Why is Machhapuchhre sacred, and is it sacred to the Gurung people?

Several sources say local Gurung communities, especially around Chhomrong, regard the peak with reverence, and it is often described as a home of Lord Shiva. That belief is real and deserves respect. It’s also contested: the geographer and former tourism minister Dr Harka Gurung wrote in 2001 that the sacred-to-the-Gurungs claim was a myth and that locals call snow peaks by a general term. We present both, attribute each, and don’t decide for anyone. What isn’t in doubt is that no permits are issued and many people below the mountain would like it left alone.

9. Why does Machhapuchhre look like a fish tail?

The name is Nepali for fish tail. The summit has two points, and from the right angle (generally from the east or west of the peak) they read as the forked tail of a fish. From Pokhara and many trail viewpoints you see mainly one sharp pyramid, so first-time visitors often ask where the fish tail is. Walk toward Machhapuchhre Base Camp or look from Annapurna Sanctuary side angles and the two tips start to show. Guides will often stop clients at the right bend in the trail and say, look again.

10. Can I trek to Machhapuchhre Base Camp?

Yes. Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) is a regular overnight stop on the Annapurna Base Camp trek, reached on a standard trekking route inside the Annapurna Conservation Area. It’s a trekking stop, not a climbing base: the mountain itself is closed to climbing. You need the conservation-area permit and normal trekking preparation, including altitude awareness. Most groups continue to Annapurna Base Camp the next morning. Check current permit rules with your operator or ACAP before you go, because fees and requirements change.

11. How high is Machhapuchhre Base Camp?

About 3,700 m (roughly 12,100 ft), based on trekking operator pages. Heights for MBC vary by a few tens of metres across sources, and no official signboard figure was checked for this article. What matters for planning is that you sleep above 3,500 m there, so the usual advice applies: ascend gradually, drink water, and descend if symptoms worsen. Your guide should carry a plan for this, and you should know the symptoms of altitude sickness before you leave Pokhara. Treat the number as approximate.

12. Where is the best place to see Machhapuchhre?

For the first view, Pokhara’s lakeside and Sarangkot at dawn. For the closest walk-in views, Ghandruk, Chhomrong, Poon Hill and the Mardi Himal ridge, then Machhapuchhre Base Camp itself. Each shows a different profile. Sarangkot gives the postcard line-up with Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. Chhomrong puts the peak almost overhead. Pick by how many days you have: Pokhara needs none, Poon Hill about four, Annapurna Base Camp about a week. Those day counts are rough, so check an itinerary before you commit.

13. When is the best time to see Machhapuchhre?

October and November, and March to April, usually give the clearest mornings. Monsoon cloud (roughly June to September) often hides the peak, though breaks do happen. Winter is cold at altitude but can be sharp and clear. Whatever the season, go at dawn: cloud tends to build later in the morning, and the first light on the summit is the reason most people set an alarm. Weather is local, so keep a spare day if the view matters to you.

14. Will Nepal ever open Machhapuchhre for climbing?

Nobody can say, and we don’t pretend to. People argue both sides: respect for local belief and the Modi Khola and Seti catchments on one side; consistency with other sacred peaks that are climbed, and local income, on the other. Dr Harka Gurung proposed opening it by bidding in 2001. We found no sign of an official plan to reopen it, as of 28 October 2026. If that changes, the decision will be the Government of Nepal’s and the local communities’ to make.

15. Are there other mountains that cannot be climbed?

Yes. Bhutan is the clearest example: sources say it banned climbing peaks over 6,000 m in 1994 and all mountaineering in 2003, citing respect for local spiritual beliefs, which is why Gangkhar Puensum remains unclimbed. We couldn’t verify the exact legal instrument for either. Within Nepal, the Himalayan Database lists some peaks as closed, but we haven’t verified each one, so we won’t name them. Closed and unclimbed are not the same thing, so check each peak’s status before repeating a claim.

How our guides talk about Machhapuchhre

When clients first see the fishtail from Pokhara or Chhomrong, the first question is nearly always the one in this article’s title. Our guides give the same answer you’ve just read: it’s closed, the reasons are layered, and some of what you read online is tidier than the evidence.

On our Annapurna Base Camp and Mardi Himal groups, we point out the mountain at dawn from [guide’s usual viewpoint] and ask clients to stay on the trail, take their rubbish out, and treat the peak with respect. When someone asks whether it should be opened, we tell them honestly that people who know the mountain disagree, and that it’s not our decision to make.

If you’d like to see it for yourself, we’re happy to talk through dates, permits and the route.

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